Application of Alkyl Polyglucosides as Components of the Extraction Medium in the Preparation of a Shampoo Cosmetic Formulation Containing Substances Isolated from Red Grape Pomace.

This study highlights the use of alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) as sustainable and mild surfactants in cosmetic preparations, such as shampoos, following the principles of green chemistry and environmentally friendly development. APGs are non-ionic surfactants of plant origin. Their favorable dermatological and toxicological profile, as well as their high skin compatibility, make them an excellent alternative to conventional surfactants used in cosmetic products. To increase the sustainability and functionality of cosmetic preparations, the concept of loan extraction was applied, in which the extraction medium is borrowed from the final cosmetic formulation. After the extraction process, the medium enriched with the extracted compounds is returned to the cosmetic. The APGs, as part of cosmetic formulations, were used in the micellar extraction process of grape pomace, a by-product of wine production. The study evaluated the effect of different types of APGs-coco-glucoside and decyl glucoside-and their concentrations on extraction efficiency, measured by LC-MS/MS based on the content of phenolic compounds and amino acids, as well as the total phenolic content, total anthocyanin content and antioxidant activity assessed by UV-Vis spectroscopy. The designed extraction medium was then used to develop a shampoo, which showed a significantly lower zein value compared to the reference preparation without extract, indicating a reduced skin irritation potential. These results highlight the potential of APG in the development of milder, sustainable cosmetic products with the ability to extract bioactive components, supporting their use in the production of environmentally friendly cosmetics.