Evidence map›Paper›PMID 39560837›Full record

ArticleSports medicine - open2024

Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers.

Natalie K Gilmore, Peter Klimek, Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Baar

Registry-linked trialAbstract read
PubMed Full text at PMC Publisher
In one paragraph

Article in Sports medicine - open, 2024. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. It is linked to trial NCT07414862 (The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training), which is not on this map. Cited by 1 paper.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
1citing papers in PubMed
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

NCT07414862 naactive not recruitingnot on this mapstarted 2025, after this paper: background citation

The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training: A Randomized Control Trial

TypeinterventionalSponsorApril HendersonRan2025 to 2026Enrolled36ConditionsHealthy AdultArmsTraditional Hangboard Protocol, Extensor Tendon Isometric Training
3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

1 citing paper in PubMed.

  1. Article
4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

4 authors.

Natalie K GilmoreDepartment of Neurobiology, Physiology and Behavior, University of California Davis, Davis, CA, 95616, USA.
Peter KlimekCrimpd, Inc., Seattle, WA, 98118, USA.
Emil AbrahamssonStones & Stories, Årsta, AB, 120 52, Sweden.
Keith BaarDepartment of Neurobiology, Physiology and Behavior, University of California Davis, Davis, CA, 95616, USA. kbaar@ucdavis.edu.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0001-9337-6186

Funding

Training Program in PharmacologyT32GM144303 · NIGMS · UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT DAVIS · PI Donald M Bers, JOHANNES W HELL · 2022 to 2026
$2.1M
Joe and Clara Tsai Foundation Joe and Clara Tsai FoundationNIGMS NIH HHS T32 GM144303Wu Tsai Human Performance Initiative Wu Tsai Human Performance Initiative
6 · The paper itself

Abstract

backgroundClimbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol ("Abrahangs"), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength.

methodsWe retrospectively evaluated the change in grip strength and Strength: Weight following Max Hangs, Abrahangs, or the two protocols performed concurrently in rock climbers who used the Crimpd app to log their training. Users who had completed two finger strength tests within a 4-16-week period were included. Climbers were grouped by the number of training sessions into: "Climbing Only", "Abrahangs Only", "Max Hangs Only" and "Both" Max Hangs and Abrahangs.

resultsFrequent low intensity finger loading was as effective at improving grip strength in climbers as training with maximal loads. Additionally, combining low intensity and maximal load training resulted in additive strength gains.

conclusionsThese results suggest that low-intensity long duration holds provide a promising training paradigm for training finger strength that is gentle enough to incorporate into existing training programs.

Indexed as

ExerciseForce transferNeurological strengthRock climbingTraining

Identifiers

PMID39560837
PMCPMC11576708

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Registered trials

Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.