Evidence map›Paper›PMID 39128883›Full record

ReviewInternational journal of cosmetic science2025

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action.

Bezaleel Mambwe, Kieran T Mellody, Orsolya Kiss, Clare O'Connor, Mike Bell, Rachel E B Watson, Abigail K Langton

Abstract readReview
In one paragraph

Review in International journal of cosmetic science, 2025. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 19 papers.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
19citing papers in PubMed
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

Neither the registry nor the abstract names a trial number. If this is a trial report, that itself is worth knowing.

3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

19 citing papers in PubMed.

  1. Trial
  2. Trial
  3. Radical cations vs. cations: a comparative study of retinyl cation and retinol radical cation.Photochemical & photobiological sciences : Official journal of the European Photochemistry Association and the European Society for Photobiology · 2026
    Article
  4. Radical cations vs. cations: a comparative study of retinyl cation and retinol radical cation.Photochemical & photobiological sciences : Official journal of the European Photochemistry Association and the European Society for Photobiology · 2026
    Article
  5. Article
  6. Review
  7. Article
  8. Article
  9. Article
  10. Article
  11. Article
  12. Article
  13. Review
  14. Article
  15. Review
  16. Review
  17. Usage Frequency and Ecotoxicity of Skin Depigmenting Agents.Pharmaceuticals (Basel, Switzerland) · 2025
    Article
  18. Review
  19. Review
4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

7 authors.

Bezaleel MambweCentre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK.ORCID https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8751-1425
Kieran T MellodyCentre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK.
Orsolya KissCentre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK.
Clare O'ConnorNo7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance, Nottingham, UK.
Mike BellNo7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance, Nottingham, UK.
Rachel E B WatsonCentre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK.ORCID https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5162-7503
Abigail K LangtonCentre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK.

Funding

No7 Beauty Company
6 · The paper itself

Abstract

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Indexed as

CosmeceuticalsRetinoidsSkinSkin AgingHumansRetinaldehydeRetinyl EstersVitamin ACosmeceuticalsRetinaldehydeRetinoidsRetinyl EstersVitamin Acosmeceuticalsformulation/stabilityskin barrierskin physiology/structuretopical retinoids

Identifiers

PMID39128883
PMCPMC11788006

What OpenQuestion holds

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Registered trials

None linked

Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.