High temperature and nib acidification during cacao-controlled fermentation improve cadmium transfer from nibs to testa and the liquor's flavor.

Migration of nib Cd to the testa during fermentation can be achieved with high temperatures (> 45 °C) and low nib pH values (< 5.0) using spontaneous fermentation. However, this low pH can lead to low flavor quality. This study used three controlled temperature fermentation treatments on three cacao genotypes (CCN 51, ICS 95, and TCS 01) to test its effects on the nib pH, the migration of nib Cd to the testa, and the liquor flavor quality. All treatments were effective in reducing the total nib Cd concentration. Nevertheless, the treatment with the higher mean temperature (44.25 °C) and acidification (pH 4.66) reached the highest mean nib Cd reductions throughout fermentation, a 1.37 factor in TCS 01, promoting the development of fine-flavor cocoa sensorial notes. In unfermented beans, the Cd concentration of nibs was higher than that of the testa, and the Cd migration proceeded down the total concentration gradient. However, Cd migration was observed against the concentration gradient (testa Cd > nib Cd) from the fourth day. Cd migration could increase by extensive fermentation until the sixth day in high temperatures and probably by the adsorbent capacity of the testa. Genotype-by-treatment interactions were present for the nib Cd reduction, and a universal percentage of decrease of Cd for each genotype with fermentation cannot be expected. Selecting genotypes with highly adsorbent testa combined with controlled temperatures would help reduce the Cd concentration in the cacao raw material, improving its safety and quality.