ArticleEuropean journal of applied physiology2024
Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors.
Article in European journal of applied physiology, 2024. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. An erratum has been issued. Cited by 3 papers.
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Who cites it
3 citing papers in PubMed.
- The validity and utility of the all-out test for forearm flexor critical force.European journal of applied physiology · 2026Article
- Methodological considerations for near-infrared spectroscopy assessments in rock climbers: impact of forearm morphology and optode placement.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2026Article
- Epidemiology of Musculoskeletal Injuries Among Climbers-A Systematic Review.Journal of functional morphology and kinesiology · 2025Review
Corrections and comments
- Erratum issued
Authors and funding
5 authors.
Funding
Abstract
purposeThe critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.
methodsTwelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF -2 kg, CF -4 kg, and CF -6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles.
resultsCF, determined from the mean force of last three contractions, was measured at 20.1 ± 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 ± 5.2 kg. In the verification trials, the mean time to failure at CF was 440 ± 140 s, with only one participant completing the 720 s task. When the load was continuously lowered (-2 kg, -4 kg, and -6 kg), a greater number of participants (38%, 69%, and 92%, respectively) successfully completed the 720 s task. Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed a high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials.
conclusionsCF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. In contrast, determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work. Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.
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