ArticleJournal of human kinetics2023
Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals.
Article in Journal of human kinetics, 2023. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 2 papers.
What it found
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The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.
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Who cites it
2 citing papers in PubMed.
- Sisyphus's Boulder: Flourishing Through Perpetual Organizational Challenges to Positive Organizational Behavior.Integrative psychological & behavioral science · 2026Review
- Forearm blood flow and vascular conductance improve after 18 weeks of bouldering training in novice climbers.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2026Article
Corrections and comments
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Authors and funding
4 authors.
Funding
No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.
Abstract
Competitive rock climbing recently made its Olympic debut, but minimal published research exists regarding training and competition strategies. Time management strategies define the structured approach climbers take in bouldering competitions to successfully obtain a "top" or a "zone" hold. During finals rounds of the International Federation of Sport Climbing bouldering competitions, climbers are allotted 240 s to complete a boulder. Variables influencing a climber's time management strategies include their work-to-rest intervals, and the frequency of their attempts or rests. Video analysis of International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions was used to collect time management strategy data of professional climbers. Fifty-six boulders (28 female and 28 male boulders) over the 2019 International Federation of Sport Climbing season were analyzed. Time management strategies variables were compared between slab/slab-like and non-slab bouldering styles using generalized estimating equations with significance set to p < 0.05. Additionally, we determined trends in success rates for various styles of boulders. There were no differences in the number of attempts taken per boulder between slab/slab-like and non-slab boulders (3.7 ± 2.3 and 3.8 ± 2.4, p = 0.97), but climbers spent more time actively climbing on slab/slab-like (92 ± 36 s) compared to non-slab boulders (65 ± 26 s, p < 0.001). Trends in the success rate suggest climbers who take more than 6 attempts on any boulder style are unsuccessful. The results of this study provide practical information that can be used by coaches and athletes to guide training and competition strategy.
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Registered trials
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