ArticleFrontiers in sports and active living2022
Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength,
Article in Frontiers in sports and active living, 2022. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 11 papers.
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Who cites it
11 citing papers in PubMed, 14 citations in OpenAlex.
- Blood flow restriction exacerbates muscle deoxygenation and fatigue during sport climbing specific finger flexors resistance training.European journal of applied physiology · 2026Trial
- Assessing the Impact of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation-Based Fingerboard Training versus Conventional Fingerboard Training on Finger Flexor Endurance in Intermediate to Advanced Sports Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Study.Sensors (Basel, Switzerland) · 2024Trial
- Trial
- Low-Load Blood Flow Restriction Training Enhances Brachial Blood Flow During Exercise but not Reactive Hyperemia in Experienced Climbers.Scandinavian journal of medicine & science in sports · 2026Article
- Comparative Effects of Core Versus Forearm Training on Pull-Up Repetition Performance in Physically Inactive Males.Sports (Basel, Switzerland) · 2025Article
- Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers.Sports medicine - open · 2024Article
- Pull-Up Performance Is Affected Differently by the Muscle Contraction Regimens Practiced during Training among Climbers.Bioengineering (Basel, Switzerland) · 2024Article
- Five weeks of dynamic finger flexor strength training on bouldering performance and climbing-specific strength tests. A randomized controlled trial.Frontiers in physiology · 2024Article
- Assessing climbers' pull-up capabilities by differentiating the parameters involved in power production.PeerJ · 2023Article
- Finger flexion to extension ratio in healthy climbers: a proposal for evaluation and rebalance.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2023Article
- Change in grip strength, hang time, and knot tying speed after 24 hours of endurance rock climbing.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2023Article
Corrections and comments
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Authors and funding
4 authors at 3 institutions in 1 country.
Funding
No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.
Abstract
Climbing-specific training programs on hangboards are often based on dead-hang repetitions, but little is known about the real intensity applied during such effort. The aim of this study was to quantify and compare the effects of different training intensities (maximal, high submaximal, and low submaximal intensities) on the fingers' physiological capabilities using a hangboard fitted with force sensors. In total, 54 experienced climbers (13 women and 41 men) were randomly divided into four groups, with each group following different training intensity programs: maximal strength program performed at 100% of the maximal finger strength (MFS; F100), intermittent repetitions at 80% MFS (F80), intermittent repetitions at 60% MFS (F60), and no specific training (control group). Participants trained on a 12 mm-deep hold, twice a week for 4 weeks. The MFS,
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Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.