Evidence map›Paper›PMID 35392592›Full record

ArticleFrontiers in sports and active living2022

The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing.

Marvin Winkler, Stefan Künzell, Claudia Augste

Abstract read
In one paragraph

Article in Frontiers in sports and active living, 2022. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 10 papers.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
10citing papers in PubMed
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

Neither the registry nor the abstract names a trial number. If this is a trial report, that itself is worth knowing.

3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

10 citing papers in PubMed.

  1. Trial
  2. Article
  3. Article
  4. Review
  5. Morphology of male World Cup and elite speed climbers.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2025
    Article
  6. Morphology of male world cup and elite bouldering athletes.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2025
    Article
  7. Editorial: Injuries, injury prevention and training in climbing.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2024
    Article
  8. Article
  9. Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2023
    Review
  10. Article
4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

3 authors.

Marvin WinklerInstitute of Sports Science, Augsburg University, Augsburg, Germany.
Stefan KünzellInstitute of Sports Science, Augsburg University, Augsburg, Germany.
Claudia AugsteInstitute of Sports Science, Augsburg University, Augsburg, Germany.

Funding

No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.

6 · The paper itself

Abstract

The analysis of the load structure in competitions is essential to develop performance structure models from which sport-specific testing and training protocols can be derived. The aim of this study was to characterize the external load structure of competitive climbing at an international level in the disciplines of speed, bouldering, lead, and Olympic combined based on video recordings of top athletes. In speed, the route was completed by women with a median of 11 moves and by men with 9 moves that required 0.73 and 0.60 s per move, respectively. Bouldering competitions are characterized by various bouts of activity with resting periods in between. Athletes attempted a boulder problem, a median of 3 times in the qualification and semi-final rounds and 4 times in the final round with an average attempt duration of 27.0 s. In lead, the load structure is characterized by an average climbing time of 4:09 min and 4:18 min, 31.6 and 30.0 actions, contact times of 6.4 s and 6.2 s, and reach times of 1.4 s and 1.6 s for women and men, respectively. Olympic combined competitions combine all 3 single disciplines starting with speed followed by bouldering and lead and are characterized by high competition loads, long durations of almost 3 h, and relatively short resting periods in between.

Indexed as

boulderingcompetition analysiselite climbinglead climbingspeed climbingworld cup

Identifiers

PMID35392592
PMCPMC8980921

What OpenQuestion holds

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Registered trials

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Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.