Evidence map›Paper›PMID 34886320›Full record

ArticleInternational journal of environmental research and public health2021

Influence of On-Sight and Flash Climbing Styles on Advanced Climbers' Route Completion for Bouldering.

Jesús Morenas, Vicente Luis Del Campo, Sergio López-García, Lucía Flores

Abstract read
In one paragraph

Article in International journal of environmental research and public health, 2021. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 5 papers.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
5citing papers in PubMed
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

Neither the registry nor the abstract names a trial number. If this is a trial report, that itself is worth knowing.

3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

5 citing papers in PubMed.

  1. Article
  2. Review
  3. Article
  4. Balancing the Bar-Influence of Social Behaviour on Sport Climbing Performance.International journal of environmental research and public health · 2022
    Article
  5. Article
4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

4 authors.

Jesús MorenasLaboratory of Motor Control and Learning, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Extremadura, 10003 Cáceres, Spain.
Vicente Luis Del CampoLaboratory of Motor Control and Learning, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Extremadura, 10003 Cáceres, Spain.ORCID 0000-0003-3749-3294
Sergio López-GarcíaFaculty of Education, Pontifical University of Salamanca, 37007 Salamanca, Spain.ORCID 0000-0003-3109-1542
Lucía FloresLaboratory of Motor Control and Learning, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Extremadura, 10003 Cáceres, Spain.

Funding

No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.

6 · The paper itself

Abstract

Route previewing has been established as a critical parameter in indoor climbing performance, as it could determine the success or failure in ascending the route. We addressed the effect of different types of previews on output climbing performance. Twenty-one advanced climbers (7b and 7c+ climbing grade) were required to complete 18 routes, rated at 6c, according to the French Rating Scale of Difficulty. Each climber previewed the route under three conditions: "No-previewing", "video-model previewing", and "real-model previewing". Output climbing performance was assessed in terms of route completion. The results showed differences on output climbing performance between types of preview. Specifically, the climbers achieved more successful attempts at climbing to the "Top" of the wall when inspecting the route with the "real-model previewing" condition, compared to the other conditions of preview. On the contrary, the climbers displayed more failed attempts in climbing the route with the "on-sight" condition, compared to the "flash" styles ("video-model" and "real-model"). The preview of the route, including performance of a real/video-projected model manipulating climbing holds, seems to increase the opportunities to climb the boulder successfully, attuning climbers to information specifying ascending actions. Climbing coaches should reinforce the design of representative training, using flash styles, to promote movement solutions for route completion.

Indexed as

Household ArticlesMountaineeringMovementclimbing performanceflash climbingon-sight climbingperceptual-cognitiveroute preview

Identifiers

PMID34886320
PMCPMC8657215

What OpenQuestion holds

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Registered trials

None linked

Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.