ArticleFrontiers in physiology2021
Death Zone Weather Extremes Mountaineers Have Experienced in Successful Ascents.
Article in Frontiers in physiology, 2021. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 6 papers, 1 of them a synthesis that pooled it.
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Who cites it
6 citing papers in PubMed, 1 synthesis or guideline pooled it.
- The impacts of sport emissions on climate: Measurement, mitigation, and making a difference.Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences · 2023Pooled it
- Simulations of the human heat balance during Mount Everest summit attempts in spring and winter.International journal of biometeorology · 2024Article
- The collective vs individual nature of mountaineering: a network and simplicial approach.Applied network science · 2022Article
- The Oxygen Transport Triad in High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema: A Perspective from the High Andes.International journal of environmental research and public health · 2021Article
- Prolonged Sojourn at Very High Altitude Decreases Sea-Level Anaerobic Performance, Anaerobic Threshold, and Fat Mass.Frontiers in physiology · 2021Article
- Heat Balance When Climbing Mount Everest.Frontiers in physiology · 2021Article
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Authors and funding
5 authors.
Funding
No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.
Abstract
backgroundFew data are available on mountaineers' survival prospects in extreme weather above 8000 m (the Death Zone). We aimed to assess Death Zone weather extremes experienced in climbing-season ascents of Everest and K2, all winter ascents of 8000 m peaks (8K) in the Himalayas and Karakoram, environmental records of human survival, and weather extremes experienced with and without oxygen support. MATERIALS AND
methodsWe analyzed 528 ascents of 8K peaks: 423 non-winter ascents without supplemental oxygen (Everest-210, K2-213), 76 ascents in winter without oxygen, and 29 in winter with oxygen. We assessed environmental conditions using the ERA5 dataset (1978-2021): barometric pressure (BP), temperature (Temp), wind speed (Wind), wind chill equivalent temperature (WCT), and facial frostbite time (FFT).
resultsThe most extreme conditions that climbers have experienced with and without supplemental oxygen were: BP 320 hPa (winter Everest) vs. 329 hPa (non-winter Everest); Temp -41°C (winter Everest) vs. -45°C (winter Nanga Parbat); Wind 46 m⋅s
conclusions1.The most extreme combined environmental BP, Temp and Wind were experienced in winter and off-season ascents of Everest.2.Mountaineers using supplemental oxygen endured more extreme conditions than climbers without oxygen.3.Climbing-season weather extremes in the Death Zone were more severe on Everest than on K2.4.Extreme wind speed characterized winter ascents of Himalayan peaks, but severely low temperatures marked winter climbs in Karakoram.
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