Evidence map›Paper›PMID 34267583›Full record

Trial reportJournal of sports science & medicine2021

Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers.

Nicolay Stien, Helene Pedersen, Vegard A Vereide, Atle H Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans, Jarle Kalland, Brad J Schoenfeld, Vidar Andersen

Abstract readRandomized Controlled Trial
In one paragraph

Trial report in Journal of sports science & medicine, 2021. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 13 papers.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
13citing papers in PubMed
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

Neither the registry nor the abstract names a trial number. If this is a trial report, that itself is worth knowing.

3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

13 citing papers in PubMed.

  1. Article
  2. Article
  3. Review
  4. Article
  5. Article
  6. Article
  7. Article
  8. Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2023
    Review
  9. Article
  10. Article
  11. Article
  12. Review
  13. Article
4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

8 authors.

Nicolay StienDepartment of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Helene PedersenDepartment of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Vegard A VereideDepartment of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Atle H SaeterbakkenDepartment of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Espen HermansDepartment of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Jarle KallandDepartment of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Brad J SchoenfeldDepartment of Health Sciences, Lehman College, Bronx, New York, USA.
Vidar AndersenDepartment of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.

Funding

No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.

6 · The paper itself

Abstract

This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107-1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.

Indexed as

AdultArmAthletic PerformanceFingersHand StrengthHumansMaleMountaineeringMuscle FatigueMuscle StrengthPhysical Conditioning, HumanTime FactorsIsometricpull-uprate of force developmentstrength

Identifiers

PMID34267583
PMCPMC8256519

What OpenQuestion holds

Textmetadata
Read underepoch 390

Registered trials

None linked

Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.