Evidence map›Paper›PMID 33591426›Full record

ArticleEuropean journal of applied physiology2021

Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Jiří Baláš, Jan Gajdošík, David Giles, Simon Fryer, Dominika Krupková, Tomáš Brtník, Andri Feldmann

Abstract read
PubMed Publisher
In one paragraph

Article in European journal of applied physiology, 2021. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 19 papers, 1 of them a synthesis that pooled it.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
19citing papers in PubMed, 1 pooled it
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

Neither the registry nor the abstract names a trial number. If this is a trial report, that itself is worth knowing.

3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

19 citing papers in PubMed, 1 synthesis or guideline pooled it.

  1. Pooled it
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  9. Review
  10. Optimizing active recovery strategies for finger flexor fatigue.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2024
    Article
  11. Article
  12. Review
  13. Article
  14. Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2023
    Review
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4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

7 authors.

Jiří BalášFaculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, José Martího 31, 16252, Prague 6, Czech Republic. balas@ftvs.cuni.cz.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0003-3502-2050
Jan GajdošíkFaculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, José Martího 31, 16252, Prague 6, Czech Republic.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0003-1616-3042
David GilesLattice Training Limited, Chesterfield, UK.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0002-5590-5734
Simon FryerSchool of Sport and Exercise, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucestershire, UK.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0003-0376-0104
Dominika KrupkováFaculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, José Martího 31, 16252, Prague 6, Czech Republic.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0001-6070-290X
Tomáš BrtníkFaculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, José Martího 31, 16252, Prague 6, Czech Republic.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0003-2669-0575
Andri FeldmannInstitute of Sport Science, University of Bern, Bern, Switzerland.ORCID http://orcid.org/0000-0002-0171-1125

Funding

Grantová Agentura, Univerzita Karlova Adventure activities and movement deficiency in youth
6 · The paper itself

Abstract

purposeSport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ([Formula: see text]O

methodsTwenty-two male sport climbers completed a series of isometric sustained and intermittent forearm flexor contractions, and an exhaustive climbing test with progressive steepening of the wall angle on a motorised climbing ergometer. Systemic [Formula: see text]O

resultsMuscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) was identifiable during an incremental exhaustive climbing test with progressive increases in angle (82 ± 8% and 88 ± 8% [Formula: see text]O

conclusionsBoth systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics determine climbing-specific endurance. Exhaustive climbing and isolated finger flexion endurance tests are interrelated and suitable to assess climbing-specific endurance. An exhaustive climbing test with progressive wall angle allows determination of the MOB.

Indexed as

AdultFingersHand StrengthHumansMaleMountaineeringMuscle ContractionMuscle FatigueMuscle, SkeletalOxygen ConsumptionPhysical EnduranceSpectroscopy, Near-InfraredIntermittent exerciseIsometric contractionMuscle oxygenNIRSThreshold

Identifiers

What OpenQuestion holds

Textmetadata
Read underepoch 390

Registered trials

None linked

Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.