Evidence map›Paper›PMID 33253416›Full record

ArticleInternational journal of cosmetic science2021

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy.

Morgane De Tollenaere, Emilie Chapuis, Laura Lapierre, Marine Bracq, Jane Hubert, Carole Lambert, Jérome Sandré, Daniel Auriol, Amandine Scandolera, Romain Reynaud

Abstract read
In one paragraph

Article in International journal of cosmetic science, 2021. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 3 papers, 1 of them a synthesis that pooled it.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
3citing papers in PubMed, 1 pooled it
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

Neither the registry nor the abstract names a trial number. If this is a trial report, that itself is worth knowing.

3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

3 citing papers in PubMed, 1 synthesis or guideline pooled it.

  1. Pooled it
  2. Review
  3. Phytoconstituents in photoaging: therapeutic potential in prevention and regeneration.Photochemical & photobiological sciences : Official journal of the European Photochemistry Association and the European Society for Photobiology · 2025
    Review
4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

10 authors.

Morgane De TollenaereGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.ORCID https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8283-7864
Emilie ChapuisGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.
Laura LapierreGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.
Marine BracqGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.
Jane HubertNatExplore SAS, Bezannes, France.ORCID https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7814-5232
Carole LambertGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.ORCID https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1552-3317
Jérome SandréChirurgien plasticien et esthétique, Polyclinique de Courlancy, Reims, France.
Daniel AuriolGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.
Amandine ScandoleraGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.ORCID https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6403-1664
Romain ReynaudGivaudan France SAS, Research and Development, Argenteuil, France.

Funding

No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.

6 · The paper itself

Abstract

objectiveSkin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin.

methodIn order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers.

resultsWe firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue.

conclusionIn conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.

Indexed as

Lipid MetabolismChromatography, LiquidHumansMagnetic Resonance SpectroscopySkin AgingWaterWaterchemical analysisclaim substantiation in vivo/in vitroskin barrierskin physiology/structure

Identifiers

PMID33253416
PMCPMC8246832

What OpenQuestion holds

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LicenceCC BY-NC-ND
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Registered trials

None linked

Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.