ArticleScandinavian journal of medicine & science in sports2020
Action capability constrains visuo-motor complexity during planning and performance in on-sight climbing.
Article in Scandinavian journal of medicine & science in sports, 2020. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. Cited by 11 papers.
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Who cites it
11 citing papers in PubMed.
- Vertical locomotion improves horizontal locomotion: effects of climbing on gait and other mobility aspects in Parkinson's disease. A secondary analysis from a randomized controlled trial.Journal of neuroengineering and rehabilitation · 2024Trial
- Adding a weight to constrain the trunk increases knee joint kinetics during sidestep cutting in female athletes.Scientific reports · 2026Article
- Exploring Convergence and Divergence in Seemingly Contrasting Perspectives on Training Perceptual-Cognitive Abilities for Sports Performance Through Moderated Dialogue.Sports medicine - open · 2025Article
- The Impact of Functional Movement Variability and Movement Creativity on Sport Climbing Performance.European journal of sport science · 2025Article
- The interplay between motor cost and self-efficacy related to walking across terrain in gaze and walking decisions.Scientific reports · 2024Article
- Embodied planning in climbing: how pre-planning informs motor execution.Frontiers in psychology · 2024Article
- The Ecological Dynamics Framework: An Innovative Approach to Performance in Extreme Environments: A Narrative Review.International journal of environmental research and public health · 2022Review
- Influence of On-Sight and Flash Climbing Styles on Advanced Climbers' Route Completion for Bouldering.International journal of environmental research and public health · 2021Article
- The influence of skill and task complexity on perception of nested affordances.Attention, perception & psychophysics · 2021Article
- Movement Matters! Understanding the Developmental Trajectory of Embodied Planning.Frontiers in psychology · 2021Article
- Action capability constrains visuo-motor complexity during planning and performance in on-sight climbing.Scandinavian journal of medicine & science in sports · 2020Article
Corrections and comments
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Authors and funding
5 authors.
Funding
Abstract
The capability to adapt to changing conditions is crucial for safe and successful performance in physical activities and sports. According to the affordance-based control perspective, individuals act in such a way as to take into account the limits of their capability to act. However, it is not clear how strength interacts with skill in shaping performer-environment interactions. We, therefore, determined whether fingertip strength influences patterns of gaze and climbing behavior on new routes of ever-increasing difficulty. We expected that comparatively weaker climbers would show less complex behavior because of an inability to perceive and act. Stronger climbers would show more complex visuo-motor behavior because more opportunities for action remain, even as route difficulty increases. For very strong climbers the route would not be challenging enough, and less complex patterns suffice. Twenty climbers, ranging from lower grade to elite level participated. Maximum fingertip strength was obtained. Participants previewed and then climbed two separate 3 m long traverses, gradually decreasing in edge depth. Gaze and hip positions were collected for subsequent computation of gaze transition entropy (during preview) and hip displacement entropy (during climbing). Data revealed statistically significant curvilinear relationships between both fingertip strength and gaze transition entropy, and fingertip strength, and hip displacement entropy. Visuo-motor complexity is scaled by how close the individual must act relative to boundaries of what the environment affords and does not afford for action given the individual constraints. Future research should examine in greater detail relationships between action capabilities and functional movement variability.
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