Evidence map›Paper›PMID 31193395›Full record

ReviewJournal of exercise science and fitness2019

Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review.

Dominik Saul, Gino Steinmetz, Wolfgang Lehmann, Arndt F Schilling

Registry-linked trialAbstract readReview
In one paragraph

Review in Journal of exercise science and fitness, 2019. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. It is linked to trial NCT07414862 (The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training), which is not on this map. Cited by 64 papers, 2 of them syntheses that pooled it.

0numbers the graph read from it
0cells of the map it votes in
64citing papers in PubMed, 2 pooled it
–field-weighted citation impact
1 · What the graph read from it

What it found

Each row is one number read from the abstract, on the scale the paper reported it, with its interval. Left of the dashed line favours the treatment, right favours the comparator. Under each row is the sentence it came from. New to these charts? A ten-minute tutorial.

The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.

2 · The registry

The trial behind it

Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.

NCT07414862 naactive not recruitingnot on this mapstarted 2025, after this paper: background citation

The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training: A Randomized Control Trial

TypeinterventionalSponsorApril HendersonRan2025 to 2026Enrolled36ConditionsHealthy AdultArmsTraditional Hangboard Protocol, Extensor Tendon Isometric Training
3 · Its place in the literature

Who cites it

64 citing papers in PubMed, 2 syntheses or guidelines pooled it.

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  15. Biomechanical Principles and Techniques-A Systematization for Sport Climbing.Journal of functional morphology and kinesiology · 2026
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4 more citing papers are in PubMed but not listed here.

4 · The record

Corrections and comments

PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.

5 · Who and what money

Authors and funding

4 authors.

Dominik SaulClinic of Trauma, Orthopaedics and Reconstructive Surgery, Georg-August-University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany.
Gino SteinmetzDepartment of Psychosomatic Medicine and Psychotherapy, Georg-August-University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany.
Wolfgang LehmannClinic of Trauma, Orthopaedics and Reconstructive Surgery, Georg-August-University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany.
Arndt F SchillingClinic of Trauma, Orthopaedics and Reconstructive Surgery, Georg-August-University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany.

Funding

No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.

6 · The paper itself

Abstract

backgroundThe number of athletes engaged in climbing sports has risen. Specific physical and psychological skills are required. The objective of this review was to determine factors for high climbing performance. We evaluated physiological, biomechanical and psychological characteristics that simplify the ascent. We also assessed training and recovery strategies.

methodsMedline (Pubmed), Cochrane Library and Google scholar up to September 2018.

resultsA low skinfold thickness, body fat and large forearm volume were anthropometric traits in successful climbers. Well-trained forearm flexors with high aerobic capacities lead to an efficient style. Hand grip strength and endurance, postural stability and optimized kinematic motions were favourable. Elite climbers had long finger and bent-arm hang times. Psychologically, an "iceberg profile" was typical. Constant training with fingerboard and dynamic eccentric-concentric training helped to push the "red-point grade".

conclusionHand, forearm strength and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. An efficient climbing style with perpetual focus and accuracy, high speed and low exhaustion due to adaption to repeated isometric exercise is helpful in the ascent, while low body fat and a large bone-to-tip pulp make it easier. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors, which should be followed by active recovery.

Indexed as

BiomechanicsBoulderingClimbingPerformancePhysiology

Identifiers

PMID31193395
PMCPMC6527913

What OpenQuestion holds

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LicenceCC BY-NC-ND
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Registered trials

Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.