ArticleEuropean journal of applied physiology2012
Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers.
Article in European journal of applied physiology, 2012. The graph could read no effect estimate from its abstract, so it casts no vote on the map. It is linked to trial NCT07414862 (The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training), which is not on this map. Cited by 41 papers, 3 of them syntheses that pooled it.
What it found
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The abstract states no effect estimate the extractor could read, or names no intervention and outcome on the map, so this paper lights no cell and moves no belief. It is still indexed, cited and linked below.
The trial behind it
Trials whose registry record cites this paper, or whose number appears in the abstract. A trial that started after this paper was published is citing it as background, not reporting it.
The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training: A Randomized Control Trial
Who cites it
41 citing papers in PubMed, 3 syntheses or guidelines pooled it, 102 citations in OpenAlex.
- IsGenes · 2022Pooled it
- Muscle Oximetry in Sports Science: A Systematic Review.Sports medicine (Auckland, N.Z.) · 2018Pooled it
- Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation.Sports medicine (Auckland, N.Z.) · 2016Pooled it
- Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers.Journal of sports science & medicine · 2021Trial
- The validity and utility of the all-out test for forearm flexor critical force.European journal of applied physiology · 2026Article
- Three-Dimensional Motion Analysis of Finger in Sport Climbing in Different Age Groups.Bioengineering (Basel, Switzerland) · 2026Article
- Effects of Repeated Contrast Therapy on Forearm Microcirculatory and Neuromechanical Recovery After Climbing-Specific Fatigue in Amateur Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial.Journal of clinical medicine · 2026Article
- Development of an Instrumented Glove for Palmar Pressure Assessment in Kayakers.Sensors (Basel, Switzerland) · 2026Article
- The Effect of Blood Flow Restriction Training on Rock Climbing Performance, Forearm Blood Oxygenation and Cardiovascular Responses.European journal of sport science · 2026Article
- Methodological considerations for near-infrared spectroscopy assessments in rock climbers: impact of forearm morphology and optode placement.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2026Article
- Ladder-climbing resistance training stimulates upper limb flexor digitorum profundus muscle hypertrophy in rats.Physical activity and nutrition · 2025Article
- Psychophysiological Response Differences Between Advanced and Beginner Climbers and Fatigue Management.Journal of functional morphology and kinesiology · 2025Article
- Climbing the gap: a review on sex differences in high-level rock climbing.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2025Review
- Assessment of Microvascular Hemodynamic Adaptations in Finger Flexors of Climbers.Bioengineering (Basel, Switzerland) · 2024Article
- A systematic review of the relationship between muscle oxygen dynamics and energy rich phosphates. Can NIRS help?BMC sports science, medicine & rehabilitation · 2024Article
- The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention.Sports medicine - open · 2024Review
- Strobe training as a visual training method that improves performance in climbing.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2024Article
- Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance.Research quarterly for exercise and sport · 2023Article
- In Vivo Monitoring of Acute and Intermittent Fatigue in Sport Climbing Using Near-Infrared Spectroscopy Wearable Biosensors.Sports (Basel, Switzerland) · 2023Article
- Finger flexion to extension ratio in healthy climbers: a proposal for evaluation and rebalance.Frontiers in sports and active living · 2023Article
Corrections and comments
PubMed lists nothing against this paper. Absence here is not a guarantee, only a check that was made.
Authors and funding
5 authors at 2 institutions in 1 country.
Funding
No grant is acknowledged in the PubMed record.
Abstract
Climbing performance relies to a great extent on the performance of the finger flexor muscles. Only a few studies investigated this performance in top class climbers and only one study compared gender-specific differences. This study investigated the climbing-specific finger flexor strength and endurance and related muscular oxygenation in 12 elite female and male climbers and 12 non-climbers. After the assessment of maximum voluntary finger flexor contraction (MVC), two isometric finger flexor endurance tests were performed at 40% MVC until exhaustion. A continuous isometric test was followed by an intermittent isometric test (10 s contraction, 3 s rest). Changes in oxygenation of finger flexor muscles were recorded using near infrared spectroscopy. MVC and strength-to-weight ratio were greater in climbers than non-climbers (P = 0.003; P < 0.001) and greater in men than women (P < 0.001; P = 0.002). Time to task failure for the intermittent test and the force-time integrals for the continuous and the intermittent test were also significantly greater in climbers (P = 0.030; P = 0.027; P = 0.005). During the intermittent test, re-oxygenation of the working muscles was faster in climbers (P < 0.05) without gender-specific differences. Close correlations were demonstrated between the best on-sight climbing performance and strength-to-weight ratio (r (2) = 0.946, P < 0.001) only in female climbers. The superior intermittent finger flexor endurance of climbers over non-climbers may be explained by the faster re-oxygenation of the finger flexor muscles during the short rest phases.
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Identifiers
What OpenQuestion holds
Registered trials
Read under generation 80e0d062 · epoch 390. Bibliography from PubMed, PubMed Central and OpenAlex; grants from NIH RePORTER; trial links from ClinicalTrials.gov; estimates, votes and beliefs from the OpenQuestion graph.